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Aconcagua Expedition 2016
Aconcagua was an amazing experience where I learnt to deal independently with all aspects of mountaineering expeditions. Firstly, me and my partner, Cloud did not use any guides and just used base camp services. We had no guides nor porters and this made me really confident about my abilities to cook myself, pitch tents, melt ice by constantly going out to collect snow, make decisions wisely, plan the expedition logistics, plan the load carries etc. There were many more instances where I felt that this whole expedition, despite me only reaching the height of 6400m, an extremely successful expedition. I went for summit alone without guides from Camp 2 at 5350m when most people went from Camp 3 at 6000m. I also made sure I was well hydrated and eaten the most calories for a successful summit bid despite the strong 60km/hr winds and many people turning back early.
Lenin Peak Expedition 2015 (preparation for everest)
Expedition blog:
The latest preparation expedition to Lenin Peak exposed me to much knowledge and carve our more experience in mountaineering that would prepare me for Everest in 2017. Find out more.
Below are some of the journal entries from very special days during the expedition when I felt highs and lows and these are exact quotations from my daily journal.
Below are some of the journal entries from very special days during the expedition when I felt highs and lows and these are exact quotations from my daily journal.
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Day 1 - 30th June 2015 (1080m)
Reached Sunrise hotel, 6-7hrs of sleep over the past 40hrs flight. Nice hotel. Buy chocolates & Groceries and had a whole chicken for dinner in hotel. Day 3 - 2nd July 2015 (3555m to 4000m) Acclimatisation trek to halfway up Petrokski Peak. Ifgini was a beast. Vladamir led the way. He's super fit. Starting out no warm up, shagged. Came down feeling good. Lunch best. I thought soup and noodles was all of lunch. Came extra rice and chicken. Shower and packed for Camp 1. Passed stuff for donkey. Guide is Korean Russian from Kazakstan. Name is Kim. Day 4 - 3rd July 2015 (3555m to 4275m) Trek to Advance Base Camp, Camp 1. Morning feeling strong, no eye pain. Had simple porridge and load of 13kg. Felt strong. Reached ABC @4275m by 2.30pm. Took 5hrs 45mins. Slight headache on left eye. Tent no 6. Unpacked and relaxed. Great lunch. Saw what I was facing. Slightly intimidated. Transparent pee. |
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Day 5 - 4th July 2015 (4275 to 4590m)
Trek to home peak. Felt headache strong one at 5.30am. Took 1/2 diamox. Slight nausea. Wore strong layers and double boots. Felt Good during climb up but slight tiredness. Good technically. Descend for good lunch. Guide change from Kim to Dan. Strong guide. We were in safe hands. Heavy load next day. Day 6 - (5th July 2015) Ascend to 5300m from camp 1 using 8.5hrs. Very difficult that usually people take 8.12 hrs first time up. Now at camp 2, vomited once but felt better and very tired. Boiling water ourselves is a hassle. We have snow storm at camp 2 and not concrete plans yet. Day 8 - (7th July 2015) Descend to 4325m
I was fully exhausted and guides had to rescue me. But it was a bad failure and I had to walk down myself. Took 6.5hrs to descend and immediately saw doctor. I think that the expedition is over for me since my appetite and breathing is limited. Puked again second time. Day 11th - (10th July 2015) 3555m @ Base Camp Rest Day. Reunion of all first party members. We drink Vodka from Bhalojar and Batista decides to leave and abandon the climb. Mikhail, Ifgini, Prefessor (Rostislav, Zafrie, Yashihiro and myself stay at base camp. I feel stronger now but slightly worried about deep breaths. We leave tomorrow again for Camp 1. This is make or break. Had a talk with Dian and see the different perspective from her side. I don't really know whether to go up or not. Day 13th (12th July 2015) 4310m (Camp 1)
Rest Day at camp . Packing of stuff and still carrying hopes of heading to summit but just wanna sleep at 6100m in prep for Cho Oyu and also to collect my flag. Feeling strong and had a short walk around Camp 1 with Yashihiro and Zaf. Now everyone is reunited and will go to Camp 2 tomor. Packed my mittens this time. Day 14 (13th July 2015) 5300m
Reached camp 2 with slight headache. Normal, collected snow, cooked mash potatoes. Good appetite. Feeling happy and not that tired. Zafrie is shagged. Only took 7 hours to reach camp 2 with Neals from Holland. Feeling relaxed and just doing chores. Day 15th (14th July 2015) Ascend to Camp 3 Zaf was extremely tired while during the ascend and back down. I felt extremely strong and a good feeling of super strength. Neals and Zaf gave up on the last 1 hour hill and I over took many climbers including slovakians, professor and even Yashihiro. I think I need to go down for a good rest @ Camp , dry my stuff and get myself ready for the summit! Feeling very strong. Day 16th (15th July 2015) Camp 2 to Camp 1 (4290m)
Return back to Camp 1 in 3hours and 30 mins. Not feeling too tired but happy to be back in shape. Good appetite, weather changing but ready for final push. 18th and 19th bad weather. Summit push by Ifgini, professor, Yashihiro and Bharojar only to 6500m. I may be able to do this! Day 18th (17th July 2015) Camp 1 - Camp 2
Started at 4.30am for the third time and reached at 9.30am. 5 hours in total but feeling sleepy and tired. Excited but trying to hold back excitement because I'm heading to camp 3 tomor for an attempt for summit. Day 19th (18th July 2015) Camp 2 to Camp 3 at 6100m Reached Camp 3 with slightly heavy feet but thats because I took 3.5hours to reach camp 3. ZAf took 4.5 hrs. Ate Mash potatoes and feeling very strong. Weather looks snowy but hopefully clears soon. I am feeling strong for the summit. I plan to take 8 hours for the summit push up. Day 20th (19th July 2015) Summit Day
Fog 15m visibility, Deep Snow, strong winds, wind burn. Russian weather. 10 hrs to reach summit and 5 hours back to base. Extremely dehydrated but still felt great and strong. Bad weather whole day. Leave at 4am and back at 7.15pm. Day 21st (20th July 2015) Return to Camp 1 Heavy load and bad weather. But extremely happy to have done what we set out to do and must return home safely. Day 22nd (21st July 2015) Camp 1 to Base Camp The heaviest bags to carry everything back home and finally took the bus back to Osh. Extremely rushed and said my goodbyes to Base camp team and guides. Feeling is unbelievable. |
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